Receiver Rebuilding and Optimization

The basic receiver consists of a few simple parts. A clear tubular rigid receiver housing, an end cap with its vent valve, the latex liner, the constrictor, and a couple of bands of liner material used to hold things firmly in place.

First we need to describe the most basic possible rebuild of a Venus 2000 system receiver. This is a no frills example that focuses on just getting the required parts back in place and the receiver quickly and cheaply back into operation. Following these steps should lead to a nice looking rebuild such as pictured on the left:

Simple Rebuild Detailed in Photos

Even with this extremely simple rebuild there is a lot of scope for customization. You can select from a wide size range of liner material. For most people the 200 and 225 liner material is probably about right, but you may prefer the tighter fit of 188 or the looser fit of 250, as long as you can get a workable seal at the constrictor. You can experiment with the length of the constrictor which is allowed to fold back into the tubular housing.

You can also experiment with using a different size of liner material for the constrictor. What you want is a nice smooth tunnel entrance without any folds.  You can usual achieve this with a constrictor made from one size smaller liner material than the liner itself. Two sizes smaller is almost impossible to use without puckering and folding of the liner material resulting, unless you resort to tricks described later.

You can experiment with the end to end tension of the liner itself. This can range from essentially no tension end-to-end when the liner is installed, to quite a bit of end-to-end pre-tensioning. This changes the behavior of the liner and modifies the shape of the entrance, specifically the amount of funnel shape produced. The photo above shows a liner with a fair amount of end-to-end tension.  This is setup is quite workable in spite of the funnel shaped entrance. If you look carefully you can see that this version uses a punched constrictor and note how it is making an impression through the liner material, since this photo was taken with a slight vacuum on the receiver body itself.

O-Ring Buttressed Constrictors

With the addition of a proper size O-ring, especially when used with the two-inch housing, you end up with a very nice and efficient receiver entrance and constrictor combination. By finding just the right O-ring size for your particular needs, you can create quite an accommodating receiver. The extra end-to-end tension possible with the O-ring in place allows you to smooth out any wrinkles or folds in the liner material caused by using smaller liner material for the constrictor. The net result is you can have a large active area which is nice and loose and still have a constrictor that will adapt over a wide range and maintain a decent seal.

Now you have a wider range of things to experiment in the quest for the best fit. You are no longer as constrained as to what sizes of liner material you can use for constrictors. You can try larger amounts of tension, or even a larger size of liner, and still not sacrifice the entrance shape. One size does not fit all. In fact, you may find that one size does not even fit one, due to variations from day to day. There is no reason to have a single receiver when you can optimize several for different scenarios of usage or physical enthusiasm for having some fun.

Going a bit further, we can try to modify the liner material used for the constrictor, adjusting its tension, by punching strategic holes in it.  Unlike the liner, this material need not for an airtight seal, that is the job of the final layer, the full length liner itself.

Punched Liner Material for Constrictors

These tricks used in combination create an extremely flexible system for setting up receivers. You should be able to create excellent results under almost any circumstances with a setup possible from some collection of O-rings, assorted liner material and constrictor selection. As said before you will likely find that several receivers set up with different liners and constrictors are quite handy to deal with the day to day differences in the mental enthusiasm and the physical enthusiasm that can exist. By the time one is skilled in creation of liner and constrictor setups at will, it is even possible to design receivers specifically for use with weak or less than full erections. Special receivers designed to be used in conjunction with the various mountings suggested elsewhere.

Notes on Tubular Housings

For most folks, I imagine the 2 inch tubular housing will be about right.  The 2.5 inch housing is also a good size, but if at all possible I think the 2 inch housing should be used. In the old days of the foam constrictors, the 2.5 inch housings were more required since you needed some space for the foam rings to work. The latex lining constrictors need less space and the liner can be a close fit to the housing, so a rather large liner can be installed in the 2 inch housing.

Remember we said the Venus 2000 system works by manipulating the pressure and vacuum of a trapped air volume using a diaphragm.  Well this diaphragm has only a certain range it can flex over. I have found that for the liveliest possible receiver, especially at high speeds, keeping the total trapped volume to a minimum is worthwhile. This implies using the smallest receiver outer housing that will get the job done, both in diameter and length.

The tubulation for the hose can be setup on either end. In fact I have one very special custom created receiver which has the hose tubulation in the middle. It has to be rated as a failed experiment. I also have cut down a hose fitting to make it as short as possible.  Another probably failed experiment as the hose slips off it too easily. This picture shows three unusual housings, starting on the left with a massive 3 inch housing and matching cap, the housing with the hose tubulation in the center, and a 2.5 inch housing with a very short modified hose tubulation.

You can cut a tubular housing to length if you are careful. First take a piece of stiff paper and wrap it around the housing at about the desired length. Line up the edges of the paper as they wrap around, and you will end up with a very nice square reference line. Now mark the line with some kind of marker. You can cut on this line carefully with a close quarters or regular hacksaw with a fine toothed metal cutting blade. The trick is to saw your way around the tube, do not try to cut it off, but use the saw to chase the cut around the surface of the tube, rotating a bit as you go and cutting about 1-2 inches of the length of the cut at a time.

The cut edge should be sanded and then polished down with the plastic scrubber pad for several reasons. First a nice smooth edge that is well rounded will increase the life of the liner material at this critical stress point. Second, a bit of frosting of the plastic by the scouring pad will make the latex grip the receiver housing very well and help keep the liner and constrictor parts in place.

In use I find the receiver seldom needs to ride the full length of the penis. Often the best sensations are obtained with it riding back and forth only a few inches, focusing mostly on the head of the penis. There is little point in a seven inch housing for most people given this consideration. You may find that in use, the receiver need not be as long as the erection even at its most enthusiastic. The reduction in trapped air volume by shortening the receiver to say six inches may be found to be worthwhile in terms of the stiffness of the action with the reduced trapped air volume.

12/03